Garden Wasabi Flowers and Spring Harvest and Fermentation

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer's husband and business partner

“Harvesting”, “picking” the heart-shaped leaves and wasabi stalks from the garden wasabi that was last “harvested” on December 6(?) approximately 2017.  The video shows the harvesting and leaf growth and some fertilizing.  The photos then show the steps of how I prepared the heart-shaped leaves and wasabi stalks for a slow ferment (identical to sauerkraut process), as opposed to a quick ferment wasabi zuke-sytle.  In another two weeks in a successive article, I’ll remove the vegetable (stalks and leaves) from the ferment and report on the taste.  Thank you for your interest in our produce.

~Markus

Step 1 (not shown) Wash the wasabi very well in a colander.  I recommend washing the leaves multiple times.  Slugs can leave "waste" on the underside which shouldn't be fermented. 

Step 2: separate the leaves and stalks (shown)

Step 3: cut leaves to desired size.  This is my preferred size.  The leaves will shrink naturally during fermentation from losing water.  

Step 4: cut stalks into desired length.  Mine are uneven, but 1/4 inch to 1 inch and includes flowers. 

Step 4: place salt in the bowl and mascerate to release water (standard sauerkraut process).  Place in a fermentation vessel and wait for your desired length of timm.  Then, remove and eat! 

Posted on March 25, 2018 .

Freezing Temperatures? No Problem! Garden Wasabi Cold Tolerance

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer’s husband and business partner.

Freezing Temperatures Are Tolerated by Flowering Garden Wasabi

This video shows the garden wasabi plants following several below-freezing nights and about one inch of snow in late February.  The video was filmed on Sunday Feb. 25 and the low on Friday Feb. 23 was 21 degrees fahrenheit and snowing.  Only one leaf indicated a slight bit of cold damage evidenced by a bruising.  Though, the majority of the heart-shaped leaves and leaf stalks and flowers were undamaged by the frost. 

Next video will harvest these leaves and leaf stems and ferment them in the same method as simple sauerkraut and make a cup of tea by steeping the wasabi flowers.

Markus

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Posted on February 25, 2018 .

You Can Grow Wasabi In Your Back Yard

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You Can Grow Wasabi In Your Back Yard

It is easier to grow wasabi than you might think!

We recently sat down with Jennifer Bloeser talking about how to grow Wasabi Plant Starts here in the US.

Jennifer Bloeser is the CEO and Co-founder (along with her husband Markus) of Oregon Coast Wasabi.

Below is what we learned from Jennifer.
 

How To Grow Wasabi Plant Starts

People offer think that it is very difficult to grow wasabi. The truth is that there are only a couple of secrets to growing wasabi and after to speaking with Jennifer we now know those secrets and this article will share those secrets with you!

Not only do Jennifer and Markus have the largest wasabi farm in the United States, they also grow wasabi in their very own yard in half wine barrels.

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Wasabi Plants Needs Full Shade

If you are going to grow wasabi in your backyard you need to make sure that your wasabi plants have full shade.

You can use the shade of another tree, the corner of your from porch, against your deck. Anywhere that you can get full shade.

To be overly clear – if a wasabi plant gets sunlight it will wither and droop very quickly.

Water Your Wasabi Plant Like You Would Water Lettuce

Lettuce lets you know right away if it needs more water. Bottom line – keep the sail moist.

Please note; while a wasabi plants native habitat in Japan is in a streambed, wasabi is not an aquatic plant and wasabi does not like to be in standing water.

Bottom Line – well drained, wet soil but not standing water.

 

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You Can Grow Wasabi in Pots

One option that is very successful for growing wasabi is to plant your wasabi starts in 1 to 2 gallon pots with good potting soil.  Doing this gives you flexibility for when the weather turns too cold or too hot. When that happen happens simply bring your wasabi plant indoors.

So what is too hot or too cold? Glad you asked! See immediately below for that answer!

What Parts of the United States Can You Grow Wasabi In?

Wasabi can and does grow all over the United States!

What you need to watch out for is weather that is too either too hot or too cold.

If the weather gets over 80 degrees or under 32 degrees - simply bring your pots inside and keep them out of direct sunlight.

If the weather is going to be over 80 degrees for just a few days and then go back to being under 80 degrees, you can leave the plants outside as they can handle warmer weather for a couple of days.

The Myth of Wasabi Seeds

Sadly, many of the wasabi seeds that are sold today (especially online) are not real wasabi i.e.

Wasabia japonica, they are actually mustard seeds or seeds for “wasabi” mustard for arugula or seeds for “wasabi” arugula.

Please note neither “wasabi” mustard or “wasabi” arugula is real wasabi. One is a variety of mustard and the other is a variety of arugula.

There is a reason that the largest reputable US seed companies don’t sell wasabi seeds on their own websites.

Wasabi seeds are very rare because they are very difficult to harvest.

You are much better off simply getting wasabi plant starts and growing those.

 

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How Long Before Harvest

 You can harvest three things from your Wasabi Plant Starts -

#1 The plant stalk i.e. the part that gets grated into wasabi paste. That part is knobby and green ands sticks up just above the dirt. This is often called the rhizome.

#2 The greens (leaves)

#3 The leaf stalk, or stems if you prefer.

 

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15 months to 2 years after you plant your wasabi start you can harvest the plant stalk (the rhizome).

This is the part of the wasabi plant that is grated into wasabi paste.

To harvest the plant stalk you pull the whole plant up and you will see some off-shoots / plant starts. Simply break those off. You can replant those and begin right away growing more wasabi!

Take the plant stalk and only grate want you want to use right then. The rest you store in the refrigerator and when stored properly, it will keep for weeks.

Keep your wasabi plant stalk in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel.

 

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8 weeks after planting your wasabi start you can begin harvesting Wasabi greens i.e. the leaves.

Wasabi greens are delicious and have many culinary  uses!

When you harvest wasabi greens make sure to leave the little leaf that is sprouting from the very top center of the plant.

Wasabi plants grow leaves year round and you can keep harvesting leaves every 6 -8 weeks and enjoy wasabi greens during the whole 15 months to two years that you are growing the plant stalks.

Wasabi greens can be eaten raw and you use them in cooking – they can be sautéed, juiced, or used raw in a salad!

One of Oregon Coast Wasabi’s customers has made a spanakopita using wasabi greens instead of spinach!

 

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The same 8 weeks applies to the leaf stalk or stem. When you harvest wasabi green make sure to also harvest the leaf stalk.

Wasabi leaf stalks are delicious! They are spicy and crunchy and you can eat them raw and use them in cooking. Think of them as thin spicy celery.

Just like the Wasabi greens You can sauté Wasabi leaf stalks, steam them, juice them, or simply snip them with kitchen shears and put them into your mashed potatoes for wonderful wasabi mashed potatoes!

 

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Getting Started!

If you want to grow wasabi in your back yard the best way to get started is to order wasabi plant starts.

Those who order wasabi plant starts from the Wasabi Store receive a copy of The Oregon Coast Wasabi Guide to Growing Wasabi.

Here is a link for you to buy Wasabi Plant Starts - www.thewasabistore.com/shop/wasabi-plant-starts

 

 

 

 

Posted on February 16, 2018 .

Winter Is a Great Time To Watch Your Wasabi Plants Grow

 

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer’s husband and business partner.

Winter is a Great Time to Watch Your Wasabi Plants Grow

This video shows the regrowth of the heart-shaped leaves and leaf stalks following the "harvest" or completely removing the leaves and stalks in early December 2017.  Through the lowest light of winter, the leaves and stalks have regrown with vigor and are ready again for harvest.  We are farmers and use the term "harvest" which translates to "eating". These leaves and stalks are ready for eating and the plants will be perfectly viable once again and ready for another tasty wasabi dish in another 6-8 weeks. 

The flower buds are a bit early this year.  The flowers are small and white and can also be "harvested"  In Japan, they are served as tempura (battered and fried) and also steeped into tea.  We garnish mashed potatoes, salads, or add them to a spring pesto.  

Markus

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Posted on February 16, 2018 .

Winter Is a Great Time To Plant Wasabi

Winter Is a Great Time To Plant Wasabi

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer’s husband and business partner.

The weather forecast for wasabi planting on the west coast looks perfect.  It may seem early, but if a deep freeze isn't likely, the earlier in the season the better.  It will give time for the roots to establish during winter rains.  The low light conditions will really get the leaf and stalk production accelerating.  The more leaf canopy in the summer will keep the plants humid and retain moisture.  The other bonus is that by the time the other vegetables are being planted, there will be wasabi leaves and stalks to harvest and eat.

Markus

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Posted on January 21, 2018 .

30 Days Later - Update on the Wasabi Plant that Had Greens (Leaves) and Leaf Stalks (Stems) Harvested from it in Dec 2017

30 Days Later - Update on the Wasabi Plant That Had Greens (Leaves) and Leaf Stalks (Stems) Harvested From it in Dec 2017

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer’s husband and business partner.

Garden plants in Portland Oregon on Jan. 5 2018. This video shows the heart-shaped leaves and stalks' new growth following harvest in December 2017. At the end, a juiced glass of wasabi heart-shaped leaves and stalks are sampled for heat and flavor. The greens (leaves) and leaf stalks (stems) were harvested from the garden in Dec.

This video is an update to the Dec. 2017 video titled "How To Harvest Wasabi Greens (Leaves) and Leaf Stalks (Stems) From Your Garden".  This video shows the harvested plants one month later.  The plants are producing new growth even in the depth of winter and through several frosty nights.  The video also samples the Dec. 2017-harvested heart-shaped leaves and stalks that were juiced and refrigerated.  The juice is still hot, spicy and has a pleasant vegetal flavor and natural sweetness.  Adding some apple, ginger and citrus would make a great healthy juice.  

The heart-shaped leaves could be a great substitute for spinach, kale, collard greens, cabbage, chard and other greens.  The wasabi stalks can substitute for celery, green onion or herbs.  It's a great spicy "celery stalk" in a bloody mary as well.  

Thank you for watching.  We hope you enjoyed our video.

Posted on January 6, 2018 .

​​​​​​​How To Harvest Wasabi Greens (Leaves) and Leaf Stalks (Stems) From Your Garden

How To Harvest Wasabi Greens (Leaves) and Leaf Stalks (Stems) From Your Garden

Markus Mead, Co-Founder and Farmer of Oregon Coast Wasabi.  Jennifer’s husband and business partner.

Harvest Recommendations, Procedures and Preparation (Summary):

·      Harvest frequently and enjoy often.

·      Harvest every 2-4 weeks.

·      Trim/harvest the stems surrounding the center meristem leaving the first “ring” of stems around the center. 

·      Don’t trim/harvest the reddish central leaves or the smaller leaves yet to fully unfurl.

·      Sauté the stems in olive oil on low/medium heat for 7 minutes.  Add the leaves at the 7 minute mark and sauté for another 2 minutes.  Sprinkle with sea salt and enjoy.  Kampai!

·      See below for additional leaf and stem recipes and photos of this recipe.

Most textbooks start  at the beginning.  In this case  it could  be,  “what is wasabi?”,  or “the  origins of  wasabi as a  food”  or “wasabi habitat descriptions”.  I’ll reserve those topics are for future articles.  Please indulge  me and enjoy this first article and associated video about harvesting and enjoying the wasabi.  In later articles, I’ll describe more of the information, facts and wonders of this miraculous plant.

At this moment, either your garden wasabi is growing or you’re imagining your garden wasabi.  If your wasabi patch has dark green opaque leaves growing together in a mini canopy of what looks like lily pads suspended in the air, now is the perfect time to harvest these wasabi leaves and stems.  Any resistance about removing plant material you have is to be expected.  Resist your resistance and liberally, gleefully, snip away and add some home-grown exoticness to your next meal.   Most of the leaves you see will soon  senesce anyway and  only decay into  the  duff.  Why not snip off these greens and enjoy them?  Periodic harvesting of the leaves and stems won’t hurt the plant.  It won’t affect its viability  or the  rhizome (central stalk) growth.  Make sure to leave the center - top  “bud” for future growth (this is shown in the video as the unfurled leaf called the apical meristem). The plant will continue sprouting from this meristem, unfurling little tender leaves, and it will  do this  year-round even inn the depth of  winter; albeit a bit slower than the Spring and Autumn.

Wasabi is  different from many other  plants in that photosynthesis is not as crucial and it can be reduced by leaf removal (harvest).  Wasabi obtains much of its nutrients from water and soil, which is taken up by the roots.  As long as there are a few leaves remaining, it will photosynthesize enough to be perfectly viable.   If all the leaves  are removed  - if  you get overzealous or are cooking for a large party - it’s ok.   The plant  will recover just  fine as long as that central meristem remains.  Enjoy the  “produce” rather than being too concerned with harming the plant.

Harvest procedure.  Reference the embedded video.  Harvest all the stalks and leaves that are growing any other direction than vertical and/or are in an area other than the immediate ring of the crown surrounding the  center-top  “bud” (called the apical meristem).

Recipes

Pickled Leaves and Stems (quick pickle, not fermented – though that’s completely possible and really tasty.)

Fresh Wasabi Stems with Miso Dipping Sauce

Add the prepared (as above) or raw leaves and stems to noodle or rice dishes pictured below.

Article Recipe With Photos

1.     With a chef knife, separate leaves from stems at the base of leaf by cutting away stem within one inch of the leaf (precision is not mandatory as all greens can be eaten raw)

2.     Chop stems into ¼-1-inch lengths.  Consistency is more important than the actual length.

3.     Dice leaves into any desired size. 

4. Sauté the stems in olive oil on low/medium heat for 7 minutes.  Add the leaves at the 7 minute mark and sauté for another 2 minutes. 

5. Sprinkle with sea salt and enjoy.  Kampai!

Posted on December 10, 2017 .

We Now Offer Gift Certificates!

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We Now Offer Gift Certificates!

We have made it easier for you to share some Oregon Coast Wasabi love over the holidays.

We now offer two Gift Certificates that you can have sent to your loved ones –

Garden - www.thewasabistore.com/shop/garden-gift-certificate

Culinary - www.thewasabistore.com/shop/culinary-gift-certificate

These new gift certificates will allow you to give your loved one a wasabi gift of Wasabi Plant Starts that they can grow in their own backyard, or a Culinary Wasabi gift pack, that they can have shipped to them at a time that is best for them.

Happy Holidays! 

 

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Posted on November 24, 2017 .

Our Gift to You - 20% Off Discount Code

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Our Gift to You - 20% Off Discount Code GFT2017

We are very grateful for the customers who have helped us get this far, and we are offering you a 20% discount code that you can use this holiday season!
 
Use code GFT2017 when you check out, and you will receive this special 20% discount!
 
This special code will expire Midnight Dec 31, 2017.

 
Remember - we now offer both:

Garden Gift Certificates -  www.thewasabistore.com/shop/garden-gift-certificate and

Culinary Gift Certificates - www.thewasabistore.com/shop/garden-gift-certificate
 
Thank you again for the support you have given us these past 7 years!
 
Happy Holidays,
 
Jennifer Bloeser

Posted on November 21, 2017 .

Recommendations for Local Food Gifts By Women Featuring Oregon Coast Wasabi!

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Recommendations for Local Food Gifts By Women Featuring Oregon Coast Wasabi! 


Portland Food Writer Pechluck Suwatanapongched Laskey Founder of Pechluck's Food Adventures has included Oregon Coast Wasabi in her article - Recommendations for Local Food Gifts By Women! 

Here is a link -

www.pechluck.com/recommendations-local-food-gifts/#more-24091 
 

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If you would like to order either Wasabi Plant Starts or culinary Wasabi for a loved for the holidays, we now offer Gift Certificates for both!

See this link here for more information - www.thewasabistore.com/shop

Finally We are honored to be included with these other businesses also run by women including - Marshall’s Haute Sauce, Only Child Chocolate Co., Hot Mama Salsa, and Et Fille Wines!

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Posted on November 21, 2017 .

Garden Wasabi Success Stories

Someone once exclaimed to me that: "....wasabi is nearly impossible to grow...".  

"Nonsense!" I replied.  And so have thousands of others each year.  The following are some of our customers' plants and gardens.  All of these customers have provided permission to use their communication and photos and used the below offer.

If you're an existing, past or future customer, remember this offer: 50% your next purchase from The Wasabi Store: Submit your photo(s) of your wasabi plant growing (or harvested), and information you think would be helpful to other wasabi growers.  For example, provide the date planted (approximate), growing environment (soil and amendments), nutrients added, potted or not, watering cycle etc.  Post this on Instagram with #wasabiplants #growingwasabi #exoticplant #FreshHotReal #homegrown #freshwasabiroot #womenofwasabi #freshwasabi #wasabi #FrogEyesWasabi   OR on Pinterest (https://www.pinterest.com/FrogEyesWasabi/) Send the photo(s) and information to Info@TheWasabiStore.com and your approval to use it and we may put it on the blog.  If it's posted at any of the above, we will contact you to ask you if we may use the photo on the blog.  For any future order, provide your name and email info@theWasabiStore.com for your discount code.

" I finally did it! My first "big" harvest after two years:) Thank you so much for your dedication and education for this plant. It has been a great gardening experience! 
Best wishes Robbie (from eureka ca;)"  

That looks a very healthy and tasty wasabi there Mr. Olson!

@rottenkoala grew a rhizome in Portland Oregon.  And I love the nail polish color.  That's enough for at least a few sushi rolls.

Mr. Chang in Utah is growing these in a pond in a gravel substrate.  "

"I've received the order yesterday and planted them already. By the end of the summer we shall see the result. I've already use the leaves to make Ozuke with pickled plums and shiso leaves. I'm planning to make some pesto sauce and salsa verde out of some. I'm going to incorporate them in my ramen somehow.   Thank you for making wasabi possible in the States."

Growing in the corner of the house in a shady spot and a wine barrel. 

The above photos and below information is from a customer John:  

"Jennifer, here are some better pictures of the 4 plants I got from you about 3-4 months ago. They are all planted in Black Gold choir potting soil.  All get a sprinkling of bat guano that is infused with good soil "bugs".  I water with a mix of about 1/2 tablespoon of Epsom Salt mixed into a gallon of water and a tiny pinch of Miricle grow.

The plants from you have been living in the garage since the cold and snow started that last week of December.  Temperature in there has held between 45-50 degrees. I do take all of them outside on days when it is over 45 and let them soak up some of our liquid sunshine.

I found your site and bought 4 roots which cost about 1/2 what my first root cost. I cant tell you how impressed I was after receiving your shipment. The packaging was exceptional, a bubble wrap box with cold pack inside. And unlike the tiny plant with 2 leaves on it like my first root, the roots you sent were huge and very healthy looking. Easily 4 times the size of my original. Very sure these will be good starts.  Just wanted to thank you for an exceptional product. I will be buying many more from you once I get these started and create a small space to properly care for them!  Thanks! John  (Sent via The Wasabi Store)

Posted on March 15, 2017 .

Cold Tolerance: Garden Plants; Apparently 16 Degrees F is OK

A frequent question we receive is about cold tolerance.  In this post, I'll document two freezing episodes in Portland Oregon in Dec. 2016 with garden plants. 

Potted Plants: Dec. 8 2016.  Temp. +28dF with light snow approximately 0.25 inches.  Note the drooping stems and wilted leaves.  These two were potted in the early summer of 2016 at Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm and then brought to Frog Eyes HQ in Portland Oregon in about late September 2016.

 

Potted Plants: Dec. 12 2016.  Temp. +45dF.  Snow melted within 24 hours.  Note the erect stems and flat leaves.  Some of the slug work / damage was present prior to the snow.  It's unknown how much was existing.  But, I'd imagine the slugs were hungry after one day of snow.  These plants are brassicas; slugs and aphids are common pests. 

Barrel Plants (barrel #2) Dec. 8 2016.  Temp. +28dF with light snow approximately 0.25 inches.  Plants covered by snow and all stems are low and nearly flat.  

Barrel Plants (barrel #2) Dec. 12 2016.  Same time as above potted plants. Note the erect stems and flat leaves.  Note the lesser about of slug work / damage.  Elevating the plants off the ground helps reduce pest damage (from slugs at least).

Potted Plants Jan. 2 2017.  This photo taken during a period of low temperatures at 16-20 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 to -6C).  The duration was approximately 5 days, with the high temperatures below 32dF (0dC).  The center plant was wrapped / covered in typical bubble wrap to determine if any difference is noted between the uncovered and covered plants. 

 

Potted Plants Jan 11 2017.  During a rare Portland snowstorm approximately 5 inches of snow.  Temperatures won't reach above freezing for about 48 hours with a low temperature to the low 20's Fahrenheit.  I haven't unwrapped the center plant yet.  It will warm up tomorrow and I'll do so.

Jan. 25 2017: They seem to have all survived!  The small one on the left was turned over and fell out of the pot.  I was at the farm and didn't re-plant it for a few days, at least one of which had a night that dropped below freezing with exposed roots.  They may not be totally happy, but they seem to have survived and are making a go at it.  Go little wasabi plants go!  The one that was wrapped, the middle one seems to be the happiest with greener leaves.  But, both the larger potent plants are, just this week, producing flower buds!  This plant amazes me at every turn.

New flower buds on the right.  I'm sorry they are blurry. 

Feb. 25 2017: All three potted plants survived.  They are all flowering.

Barrel #2 plants on Jan. 2 2016.  These were left uncovered as an experiment to determine if any difference is observed between the potted and barrel plants and the uncovered and covered potted plants. 

These temperatures, and particularly the duration are quite outside the typical wasabi preference (and frankly outside of mine as well).  It will be interesting to observe the recovery process.

Barrel #2 with a snow blanket.  Jan. 11 2017.

 

 Jan. 25 2017.  Barrel #2.  All of the plants seem to have survived.  They even are producing small shoots already, just one week after the freezing temperatures stopped.     

Jan. 25 2017.  Barrel #2.  All of the plants seem to have survived.  They even are producing small shoots already, just one week after the freezing temperatures stopped.  

 

 

Showing new shoots from the apical meristem on Jan. 25 2016 from a Barrel #2 plant.


 

Barrel #2 also survived.  The perimiter plants at the 1 and 2:00 position sustained some cold damage, but they are returning. 

Posted on December 11, 2016 .

Garden Wasabi Planting: What To Do and What Not To Do

First I want to reiterate that our home garden wasabi planting is intended to approximate a laissez faire gardener environment, with no special treatment, hot and dry conditions in the summer and cold in the winter (relative to the Oregon Coast) to test the plants' response.  See this former blog post for more.  This was done to such an extent that we intentionally did' t follow our own recommended planting instructions.  Thus, I've structured this blog episode into "our preparation" and "recommended preparation" which is the information that accompanies plant start purchase packages.  I can assure you that we are not laissez faire at the Frog Eyes wasabi Farm - and not about much else if truth be told.  But, I want to assure the readers that there's no special treatment or hidden magic being applied to the plants in our home garden (this garden needs a name don't you think?).  This summer, 2016, I planted an additional wasabi plant start half-wine barrel with an intention to display the correct way to plant wasabi and the incorrect way and the results.  

Our Preparation: (Note, this is what I did, and not necessarily best practices.) Soil/media: First, I planted a half-wine barrel using store-bought organic potting oil and about 25% large, 1-inch pumice for drainage and oxygenation.  Sunlight: Unlike the initial barrel that receives sunlight in late January and early February in the early morning, I placed the barrel in a location that receives sun in months 3/4 and 8/9 at about noon for about 1.5 hours. This to increase the sunlight strength at a much stronger solar period.  I planted small plant starts without leaves and larger ones with leaves. This was done to display the plant's accommodation of inhospitable conditions at different growth stages. I also planted at the hottest week and driest week of the entire year, with temperatures at 100dF and humidity between 15-30%.  

Recommended Preparation: 

Planting Depth: 1 inch or less - Only deep enough to keep the start upright;  Spacing:   12 inches on center;     Hardiness: 27°F;     Soil Type: Well-drained, rich in organic matter    Location: Full Shade  

Choose a well-drained location with sufficient organic matter. If you’re planting in a pot the container size should be 10 inches or larger (a 2.5 gallon minimum). Work in 10-12 inches of compost to a soil depth of 8-10 inches. Wasabi requires a neutral or slightly acidic soil pH of 6-7.  Plant your start only deep enough to keep it upright.  Being sure that all of the roots are covered, backfill the hole and gently press into place. Do not cover the rhizome, it needs to be exposed above the surface. Wasabi plants can reach 24 inches in height so space plants at least 12 inches apart. Water well, but do not let the plant sit in drainage water. After initial planting irrigate regularly with cool water. Mist as necessary to keep plants cool and to avoid wilted leaves. Mulch may increase moisture retention, which will be especially beneficial during warmer months.   Leaves that have been wilted for a week or more should be removed to deter pests and lower the risk of disease. Keep the planting bed or containers weed free and fertilize regularly with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Fertilizers or foliar sprays rich in sulfur may improve the flavor of the rhizome. 

Cultivation: In its natural habitat you will find Wasabi growing on the shaded wet banks of cold mountain streams. When grown in a home garden Wasabi does best in full shade with steady temperatures between 50-60°F, although the Daruma variety is slightly more tolerant of heat and light. Temperatures below 40°F may slow growth and temperatures below 27°F can kill the entire plant. Temperatures above 80°F can begin to cause heat damage as well as increase the risk of pests and disease. So take this into consideration when selecting a planting sight for your Wasabi.

As seen, there's loads of sunlight.  We do not recommend any direct sunlight at any time of the year.  Wasabi grows in alpine streams at elevation and under evergreen canopy.  If one should err on sunlight or shade, give wasabi shade.

Our Method: The larger plants were potted.  Continuing on the laissez faire gardener condition, they "rested" on the side of the currently-planted wasabi barrel for a few weeks, receiving no sun, and some water and routinely being kicked over by our faithful hound.  The first photo below shows the potted plants prior to planting and the volume of pumice used for the top layer of potting soil and the sunlight.

Recommended Method:

Showing the potted plant hole depth.  I add a bit of pumice at the bottom of the hole for root drainage.  

Photo taken several minutes later after the sun was shaded by the house.  This photo shows the backfill to the potted plant hole and the plant spacing which is about 8 inches on center.

This photo shows the new plant starts that are new.  This is how the first wine barrel's plants began.  This photo shows their size and the bare root condition.  This is how The Wasabi Store ships plant starts.  They are nearly always successful, unless planted on the hottest day and driest day(s) of the year and with direct sun.  The potted plants were once just like these about two months ago.  I recommend that if you order plant starts in the summer to plant them in a cloudy and cool week.  If they arrive during a hot spell, keep them in the refrigerator in a plastic bag and wrapped in a wet muslin or paper towel (just like the storage instructions for the mature rhizome).  They will be much happier in the cool, damp refrigerator.  These are not your typical plants.  Don't panic about "getting them in the ground as soon as possible" or other common plant-planting axioms.  I'd recommend the maximum time in the refrigerator is 3 weeks.  If it's going to be that hot during your summer, wait to plant in the autumn so the plants are established for the following summer. 

Having planted the small starts just like the others.  Soil almost, but not up to the bottom of the stems.   Don't worry about root oxygenation like other plants.  Don't pack the soil.  Just water and let the water weight pack the soil.  Oxygenation is encouraged, not discouraged.   See how the plants are planted with soil just to the bottom of the rhizome?  That's the correct depth.  More soil can always be added later.  It's better to not smother the plants and allow air in, rather than make too damp an environment.  

 

Showing one week later after the heat wave.  The small starts are dry.  The established plants have endured the incompatible conditions. 

Showing apical meristem growth in an established plant just days following the heat wave.  They actually grew during this time.  

Showing small leaves in the center, the apical meristem growth again.  This week is cool and rainy.  I'll have an update on the small plant starts in about 10 days.  Wish them luck on their recovery!

Pests and Diseases: Wasabi is a member of the Brassica family. Pests and diseases of this family include: aphids, cabbage and alfalfa looper larva, crane fly larva, and slugs. The best defense against pests and disease is to maintain the cool temperatures and stable irrigation wasabi prefers. Pruning wilted or diseased foliage, hand removal of slugs or use of slug bait, and removal of aphids and other pests is beneficial to the plants health. Use caution when using any insecticidal soap or any other insecticides. If any fungal disease is detected it is recommended to remove the plant away from all others to try treating it, or dispose of the plant entirely. Copper spray can be useful in the presence of any fungal complications. 

Harvesting: If conditions are optima, within 24-36 months from the initial planting, you may harvest a four inch or larger rhizome. In the meantime, you may harvest the petioles (leaf stems), leaves and flowers that bloom in the early spring. All parts of the plant are edible. However, overharvest of leaves can lead to slower rhizome growth.

The whole wasabi plant is edible.  Enjoy harvesting and eating the leaves and leaf stems raw or cooked while you wait for your rhizome to grow!  When your rhizome is ready to harvest it is recommended to hand dig the plant out of the ground or pot. You can then remove the plantlets that have formed around the crown to be potted or planted and expand your wasabi crop. Trim away the roots and stems and enjoy your fresh wasabi.

Update: Late September 2016.  The plant starts that had no leaves all died.  I've not seen such a rapid demise.  This was because I planted both on the hottest week of the year and with some direct sunlight.  The plants simply were brought beyond their tolerance at such a young age.  The other plants continued to grow and are thriving. Lesson: if it's too hot, keep the plant starts in the refrigerator or initiate them outside the garden and wait for a period of appropriate days. 

This photo was taken on the same day as the above.  This plant was started in the pot and, though planted at the same time (hottest day .....), it is continuing to grow.  

Posted on September 1, 2016 .

Garden Plant Starts - A Photo Chronicle

The leaves, stems and flowers of garden-grown wasabi plants are perfectly edible.  Wasabi is a brassica.  So, like kale, the leaves and stems on the side can be removed / snipped off and eaten while the plant will grow from the top (apical meristem).  The examples shown on this page were grown in the Willamette Valley in Oregon (Plant Hardiness Zone 8a.), not on the Oregon Coast where the Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm is located.  We wanted to approximate a laissez faire gardener environment, with no special treatment, hot and dry conditions in the summer and cold in the winter (relative to the Oregon Coast) to test the plants' response.  They were planted in September, 2014 and the foliage shown is in March 2015.  They were grown in well-drained soil with approximately 20% gravel and the remainder soil and compost.  A bit of 14-14-14 lawn fertilizer was applied once per year. They endured an ice storm in November 2014 and snow in December 2015. Below is a photo chronicle of these garden wasabi following the Dec. 2015 snow.  (Note, this is a Pacific Northwest snowstorm.  The likes of which much of the rest of the country would hardly take note.  The temperature was only ~30dF/-1dC and the snow was only a dusting.).  I'm showing this as a reference to those that want to know if the wasabi plant can survive a freeze.

Garden Wasabi Dec 2015 snow

Here are the same plants one month later on Jan. 30 2015.  Observe the new growth in the small leaves in the lower canopy.  Also observe the vacant space that one plant died last summer during the PNW drought. (I did replace this plant in later photos.)  Also observe the first flowers in the lower-right corner.  These plants begin their flowering cycle on Winter Solstice and then flowers are often visible by about February and may last until April / June depending on conditions.   The leaves and stems are perfectly edible at this stage (any stage really).  As long as the apical meristem is left intact.  See below for a photo of the meristem growth.

Garden Wasabi Plants Jan302016.jpg

Feb. 2 2015:  This photo shows the plants just a few days later on Feb. 2.  Note, I've planted a plant start from Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm in the vacant location.  Note how much the plant has grown in the next photo. IMG_3147.jpg

Feb. 20 2015.  What growth!  Observe the height of the leaves above the barrel rim that were below just 18 days ago.  Also, note the height of the two flowers and the leaf diameter.  Lastly, note the leaf coverage in multiple canopy layers with the largest leaves on top and the medium and then smaller leaves below.  These will all progress to form a full canopy with approximately 6-inch diameter leaves by April/May.  See previous posts for photos of these very same plants from past years.  This is an important point; some of these plants are the same originally planted in September 2014. Though we did lose a few in last summer's heat and our intentional neglect.  See this post for more information. 

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Feb. 20 2015 continued:  Wasabi flowers are rare indeed. The plants drop their leaves on winter solstice and commence their flowering cycle which ends in mid April (but can continue through June). This specimen grown in a typically shady spot in Portland Oregon in standard-issue garden soil and conditions. The flowers are edible traditionally tempura-fried or steeped into a tea.

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Feb. 20 2015: My finger pointing at the apical meristem growth.  That is the top of the plant.  This is the most important part of wasabi growth.  If the plant start has this, it'll continue growing.  The side stems senesce as the plant grows vertically and if really happy, producing a wasabi rhizome underneath!

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Posted on February 21, 2016 and filed under Plant Start, Uncategorized.

Tour Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm Virtually

Wasabi Fans, We receive frequent requests to tour the Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm.  Honestly, we'd love to accommodate everyone.  We love sharing our produce with our customers.  This creates a problem as, for various reasons, we cannot provide farm tours.  To solve this problem, the good folks at the Zagat Guide created a fantastic video of the Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm.  The video chronicles the harvest process and includes the grand finale of grating the rhizome fresh a the farm.  This is the tour we would want to provide every one of you that request(ed / s) a tour.  We hope you enjoy the tour.

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EYWW1NGJMI&w=1280&h=720]

As evident on our media page, Jennifer has been the subject of many past videos.  She wanted to take a breather on this one.  Hint, somewhat like "Where's Waldo" spot the faithful farm dog Sam in nearly every segment.

We hope you enjoy this video.  We are very grateful to the creators and producers of this video.  We think they did a fantastic job and created an entertaining and informative narrative.

 

Posted on January 9, 2016 .

How Long Does It Last Part II: Nature's Flavor Wrapper (AKA Oxidization)

Crib notes from this entry: the black is just oxidization and actually seals in flavor and heat.  The white shoots are edible and quite tasty.  Order more wasabi than you think you'll immediately use because it should last for two months - and once you have the fresh, hot, real wasabi you'll use it more in your cooking (see this page for the many culinary uses). Before devouring this entry, I recommend reading the preceding entry, How Long Does It Last (Part I) for reference.  That referential entry anecdotally describes the wasabi rhizome's preservation abilityIn that post/entry, I described informing demo customers that the wasabi rhizome they just sampled was stored in the refrigerator for two months.  We also provided a comparison to freshly-harvested with no discernible flavor difference. This entry (Part II), shows what a two-month old rhizome looks like, preparation, presentation and an unexpected spontaneous gift from the wasabi rhizome.

The below rhizomes are over two months old and were placed in the bottom of a standard residential refrigerator vegetable drawer bin and frankly, neglected.  They were moved about, jostled and shoved aside after each week's farmers' market trip to make room for beets and summer greens.  They were wrapped in a (at one time damp) paper towel in a plastic bag; which comprises the basics of our recommended storage procedure. The white shoots all grew without the benefit of photosynthesis and is typical of post-harvest wasabi starting at about six weeks (see this recent entry about planting wasabi plant starts with white shoot growth). Bonus, unexpected, spontaneous gift: the white shoots are edible and actually quite tasty. But that's not the purpose of this post, but was included in this previous entry.  So, your long-in-the-tooth wasabi in the bottom of the refrigerator is still fine to grate up, will still pack a heat and flavor punch and has these delicious little flavor-packed shoots that your guests likely have never seen or tasted and will be a great dinner conversation topic.  So, go ahead, order a bit more wasabi rhizome than you expect to use immediately and keep it until (from now) Christmas or longer.  It'll be fine and you can grow fun, edible (and safe) things in your refrigerator!

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For reference, below is a package of freshly-harvested wasabi rhizomes from Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm

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The black is an oxidization layer that is naturally-forming and does NOT indicate spoilage.  Actual wasabi rhizome spoilage will be white or grey-colored and will be very stinky.  (Wasabi is a member of the brassica family which also includes broccoli; imagine stinky broccoli and magnify.)  Shown below is the preserved wasabi under the oxidized layer

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Essentially, if the wasabi does not stink; eat it.  The oxidization is millimeters thin and is shown below.  Though difficult to see, this rhizome tip is actually cutaway (reference the thin cut line about mid-point in the rhizome orientated top-to-bottom).

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This oxidization layer is nature's natural flavor wrapper.  It's edible - though for flavor sake I don't recommend eating it - it is not mold. The wasabi rhizome essentially seals itself from the degratory effects of oxygen. Think of it as nature's Rustoleum (trademarked / etc. I'm sure).  I typically scrape it off with the back of a knife.  A standard  peeler can also be used, though I this usually removes more rhizome flesh than I would prefer.

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To use these older rhizomes, remove the amount remove the oxidization from the length of rhizome that you want to grate as shown below.  Wrap these rhizomes back up in the same damp paper towel in the same plastic bag and I would imagine that they would be good for another month or so. The cut area of the grated area will re-oxidize and reseal the rhizome.  Just remember remember to not put it at the very very back of the refrigerator because it can freeze and that will make the rhizome mushy.  Freezing will affect the consistency and it will reduce the flavor as the heat.  These qualities are retained in the cell walls, which, once broken releases the heat and flavor.  The water inside the cells is released by the freeze-related expansion.  It's like the cracks in a mason jar glass that was completely with water and put it in the freezer.

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So everyone, enjoy your wasabi and don't be afraid to buy more than you might need because shipping is expensive and the rhizomes will last for a long time and it will grow these white shoots you can put on a dish and people will be rather amazed - and we hope, quite pleased as well.IMG_2713

Posted on November 3, 2015 .

Wasabi In The Garden: Second Autumn Planting

Wasabi Fans, Note: these white plants starts were planted in Oct. 15 2015.  The update photos below were taking on Nov. 8 2015.

It's time to plant wasabi in the garden again.  As I maintain, fall is an optimal time for wasabi planting.  We plant in both autumn and spring at both Frog Eyes Farm and our garden in Portland Oregon.  The  garden wasabi does not receive any amendment aside from an annual 14-14-14 fertilizer.  It does not receive any of the nutrients or conditions we use at Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm.  In fact, I intentionally neglect these plants and water minimally.  I want to subject them to the worst case conditions to mimic potential condition in your gardens.  This wine barrel does receive some sun for a few hours for a few weeks in the height of summer and a bit of sunlight on mid-winter mornings.  I wouldn't recommend any more sun than this, and I do strongly recommend to plant wasabi where there's no direct sunlight ever.  See below the state of the plants which, last Spring looked so healthy and lush.  The summer's sun and heat killed about half of the plants an the other remaining are struggling. (Granted, I've not watered them for about one month now and just relied on sporadic rain.)  But, the apical meristems are growing and I expect them to recover.  (Know that the plants at Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm receive very attentive care.  Indeed, it's the time I spend on the farm with those plants that precludes my care of these in the garden.  Farming's hard.  By the time I get home, I want to take a shower, have a pint, and sit down!)

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See the closeups of the apical meristem that are growing. The leaves are dried, crinkled and brittle (also tough).  That's due to the lack of watering.  They will flush out again when the rains come or I start watering.

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In fact, on this photo below, the primary rhizome/meristem has died away, but an offshoot is growing.  The wasabi plant, when stressed, will send out offshoots that will become dominant if the primary rhizome suffers.  I expect this plant to do the same.

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Now, to the planting.  I used offshoots from Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm.  These offshoots were in the refrigerator for approximately two months.  They grow these white stems much like Belgian endive.  The rhizomes and offshoots will both do this.  They are actually quite tasty.  I decided to leave them on.   I also am using these to show that the offshoots, even after being stressed and "out of the ground" for two months and nearly aerobic in the bottom vegetable drawer, will grow just fine.  If these grow, the ones we provide fresh from Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm should also grow just fine.  Remember to view the growing recommendations on our website. 

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All I did was use a trowel, dig a hole, insert the offshoot and replace the soil and water.  The white tops make the new plants more visible.  I'll provide more updates as these grow and mature.  Remember, that one of the reasons to plant in the winter is that the offshoots grow all winter and like other brassicas, the leaves and stems are all edible and will be a source of fresh greens in the dead of winter.  Add wasabi to your kale garden and brussels sprouts and you've got healthy greens in the winter!

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UPDATE Nov. 2015

What a difference some water and shade (not sun) makes!  The new plants and the existing year-old plants are doing quite well.   See the first photo below compared to the first photo in the above Oct. entry.   New growth abounds.

Garden Wasabi Nov 2015

The below is a white-shoot plant start shown above.  The green color has returned and fresh shoots are appearing.  Note, this is the one at about the 11:00 position shown above in the October entry.   All the new plant starts are doing well.  Even after enduring being uprooted several times by squirrels.

Garden Wasabi Nov 2015-2

This photo is a one-year old plant that is an offshoot from the dried-out and dead central rhizome shown above.  See the blackened remnants of the rhizome on its side just beside this new shoot?  And see how much healthier these new shoots seem from just a few weeks ago?  Some rain and lack of sun (shade) really help reinvigorate these plants. Garden Wasabi Nov 2015-3

Posted on October 16, 2015 .

Autumn Is The Time For Planting; Really Really

Garden wasabi in Barrel "A".  The Original barrel (1 of 2).  On Oct. 1 2016.

Wasabi Fans, We prefer to plant wasabi in the early autumn. Though Spring is traditionally the universal crop-planting season to prepare for the summer sunshine, wasabi grows fastest during the transition seasons; Spring and Autumn.  Thus, planting to prepare for these seasons is important to establish the plant starts.   Think of wasabi as garlic; plant it in the autumn so it establishes and is ready to take maximum advantage of early Spring.  We do this at Frog Eyes Wasabi Farm and recommend it for the home garden as well.  This timing takes advantage of the cloudy day of Spring which establishes the plants so they flower in late Winter/early Spring.

Flowers and Pedunkles
Flowers and Pedunkles

Depending on your location, your springtime may be too hot or dry for wasabi to really take root.  As long as your winter doesn't freeze too hard or long (below 25dF or for more than 48 hours duration), I think Autumn is the time for you.  This photo was taken approximately two months after planting in Sept. 2014.  This was the first ice storm of the season.  Look closely and the leaves are very shiny from the freezing rain.  The plants above are the same ones and indeed survived the winter (though not the neglect and heat of the summer).

Front Yard Wasabi
Front Yard Wasabi

Indoor is ok, just make sure to NOT put it under a light.  Remember, we as an agriculturally-centered society, we think of food products being grown in open fields with lots of summer sunshine.  Though wasabi is indeed a food crop in that sense, it does not thrive in sunshine.  I can't stress this enough.  It is the primary reason wasabi doesn't flourish in gardens or long enough to become a food crop in your backyard.  This plant wants shade.  All year.  365 days per year.

Potted wasabi plant (shown outside, but taken inside for the winter).

Offshoot Growth
Offshoot Growth

Photo below: Daio Wasabi Farm in Japan.  Photo courtesy: http://www.thesoupspoon.com/all-about-real-fresh-wasabi/

Daio Wasabi Farm
Daio Wasabi Farm

Err on the side of shade. not sun.  These leaves shown with very diffused winter light on February 20 2015 in the shade on a cloudy day (on the left) and the same plant in the sun on Feb. 28 2015.  Keep in mind that this is the sunshine at  46 degrees north in winter sun.  Though the leaves recovered, it shows that wasabi really prefers shade.  This is what makes wasabi a great garden crop, it'll grow where other vegetables don't thrive.  Plant it under the boxwood on the east side of the house, next to the moss, not on the south side of the tomatoes!  Remember, we have preparation and planting information on our webpage: http://www.thewasabistore.com/wasabi-plant-starts/   And, plant starts can be purchased here: http://www.thewasabistore.com/shop/wasabi-plantlet

Garden Plants Leaves Feb 20 2015
Garden Plants Leaves Feb 20 2015
Garden Plants Wilting Leaves Feb 28 2015
Garden Plants Wilting Leaves Feb 28 2015

Garden wasabi in Barrel "A".  On Oct. 1 2016.

Garden wasabi in Barrel "A".  The Original barrel (1 of 2).  On Nov 10 2016.  More leaves, More canopy coverage.  Leaves are lighter color (more water).  Reference all the new growth in the foreground.  Also note the medium size leaves.  Where, in October, the leaves were either large or small, the new growth in October to November provides more canopy.

Garden wasabi in Barrel "B".  The second barrel planted in August 2016.  On Oct. 1 2016.

Garden wasabi in Barrel "B".  The second barrel planted in August 2016.  On Nov 10 2016.

Posted on September 14, 2015 .